Jeans are a favorite in almost every closet. They’re strong, stylish, and go with almost anything. But one problem many people face is the length. A great pair of jeans may be too long. Rolling them up doesn’t always look neat. Cutting them short can ruin the look.
There’s a better way to fix this. You can hem jeans while keeping the original hem. This trick makes the jeans look like they were made to fit you. The original hem method keeps the factory look at the bottom. That means no one will know you altered them.
This guide will walk you through every step. You don’t need to be a sewing expert. Just follow along carefully.
Why Use the Original Hem?
Most jeans have a special finish at the bottom. It’s called the original hem. It often has a faded line, some wear, and a specific stitch. Cutting this off and sewing a new hem changes the look. The jeans may end up looking homemade or uneven.
Keeping the original hem has several benefits:
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The jeans still look factory-made.
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The bottom color and fade match the rest of the jeans.
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The fit and style stay the same.
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It saves time and money.
This method works best with straight-leg or skinny jeans. It also works on bootcut, but it takes a little more care.
Tools You Will Need
Before starting, gather all your supplies. It’s important to have the right tools.
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Jeans that need hemming
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Sewing machine
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Denim or heavy-duty needle
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Thread (match your jeans or use gold for contrast)
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Fabric scissors
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Pins or sewing clips
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Ruler or measuring tape
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Iron
Optional: Seam ripper and chalk or fabric marker.
Step 1: Try On the Jeans
Put on the jeans with the shoes you usually wear. Stand in front of a mirror. Fold the hem under until it touches the top of your foot or your desired length.
Use safety pins to mark the fold. Walk around a bit. Make sure the length feels right. The jeans should not drag on the ground. They should also not be too short.
Once you’re happy with the fold, take them off. Measure from the fold to the bottom of the original hem. Write this number down. This will be the amount you need to shorten.
Example: If you folded the jeans up by 2 inches, you will shorten them by 2 inches.
Step 2: Measure and Mark
Lay the jeans flat on a table or floor. Use your measuring tape and chalk or fabric marker. Measure up from the bottom edge of the jeans — the edge of the original hem. Mark the amount you want to shorten.
Example: If you want to shorten by 2 inches, mark 2 inches up from the hem.
Draw a line across both legs. Make sure the marks are even on both sides. You can double-check by folding one leg over the other. The marks should match exactly.
Step 3: Cut and Prepare the Hem
You are not going to cut off the hem itself. Instead, cut above the hem to remove the extra length.
Turn the jeans inside out. Now fold up the original hem to the mark you made. You should see the hem sitting above the fabric fold.
Pin it in place. The hem should now sit about 2 inches up the leg (or whatever your number was). This is where you will sew.
The fold you see will become the new inside of the jeans. This keeps the original hem at the bottom where it belongs.
Step 4: Sew the New Hem
Set up your sewing machine. Use a denim needle and matching thread. Choose a straight stitch.
Start at the inner seam of one leg. Sew just above the edge of the original hem. Keep your stitch line close and straight. You are sewing the hem back onto the jeans — just higher up.
Sew all the way around the leg. Go slow, especially over thick seams. Use your hands to guide the fabric. Backstitch at the start and end for strength.
Repeat this for the second leg.
Step 5: Trim the Extra Fabric
You now have a flap of fabric on the inside. This extra fabric sits above your new hem. Some people leave it there. Others prefer to cut it off.
To remove it, turn the jeans inside out. Cut the extra fabric above the new seam. Leave about ¼ inch above the stitch line.
Be careful not to cut the seam you just sewed. If you do, the hem may come loose.
You can also zig-zag stitch or serge the raw edge. This keeps it from fraying.
Step 6: Press the Hem
Pressing the hem makes it look neat. It also helps the seam lay flat.
Use a hot iron with steam. Press around the new hemline. Flatten the seam so it looks like part of the jeans.
From the outside, you should see the original hem in place. It should look just like before — only shorter.
Try on the jeans again. Check the length. Walk around. Make sure both legs match.
If everything looks good, you’re done.
Tips for Best Results
Use a heavy needle. Denim is thick. A regular needle may break.
Sew slowly. Rushing can cause the stitch to go crooked or skip.
Match the thread. Use a thread color that blends with the jeans or matches the original hem.
Use the right tension. Adjust your machine tension so the stitches are even.
Use clips if needed. Pins may not hold thick denim well. Clips are easier for heavy fabric.
Can You Hem Stretch Jeans?
Yes, you can. But stretch jeans may pull in or twist if not sewn correctly.
Make sure not to stretch the fabric while sewing. Use a stretch needle and polyester thread. These help the stitches hold without snapping.
After sewing, let the jeans rest for a while. This allows the fabric to go back to shape.
What If the Hem Is Distressed?
Some jeans have a worn or frayed look at the bottom. This is called a distressed hem. You can still keep this look.
Just follow the same method. Make sure to sew carefully above the worn hem. After sewing, rough up the edge a bit with sandpaper. That brings back the old look.
What If You Don’t Have a Machine?
You can sew by hand. It takes longer, but it works.
Use a strong needle and heavy thread. Sew small, tight stitches just above the hem. Keep them even. Use a thimble to push the needle through thick spots.
If sewing by hand is too hard, take the jeans to a tailor. Many tailors offer original hem service for a small fee.
Mistakes to Avoid
Cutting off the original hem. That ruins the factory look. Always sew above it.
Measuring wrong. Always double-check your length. Use the same shoes you’ll wear.
Using the wrong needle. Regular needles bend or break. Use denim needles.
Sewing too far from the hem. That makes a double line. Sew close to the original hem for a clean look.
How Long Does It Take?
Most people can hem a pair of jeans in 30 to 45 minutes. If it’s your first time, it may take longer. Go slow. Accuracy is more important than speed.
Once you’ve done it once or twice, it becomes much easier.
Can Kids or Teens Learn This?
Yes. This is a good project for beginners. Kids can learn basic sewing skills and feel proud of their work. With adult help, even a 12-year-old can do this.
Do You Need Special Jeans?
No. You can use this method on almost any pair. Skinny, straight, bootcut — all can be hemmed with this technique. Just avoid very flared jeans or extremely wide legs. Those may need a different method.
Final Check
Here’s a short checklist:
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Did you measure both legs the same?
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Is the hem even and flat?
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Are the seams strong?
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Did you trim or finish the extra fabric?
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Did you press the hem?
If yes, you’ve done it right.
Why Not Just Cut and Sew?
Cutting the bottom and sewing a new hem is faster. But the new hem may look different. It won’t have the faded line, the texture, or the same thread.
The original hem method keeps everything looking original. That makes the jeans look like they were made just for you.
Take Care of Hemmed Jeans
Wash them gently. Turn them inside out. Use cold water and low heat in the dryer. That helps the new seam last longer.
If the hem starts to come loose, you can sew over the same line again. That will tighten the seam.
Wrap-Up
Shortening jeans doesn’t mean losing the original style. With this method, you can keep the hem and still get the right length. It’s a simple skill that saves money and gives great results.
Once you learn how to hem jeans with the original hem, you can fix all your jeans at home. No need to pay a tailor every time. Just take your time, follow the steps, and practice.
Your jeans will thank you.
